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燒烤的鯡魚

我緊追在後,心裡越想越氣,恨不得把他逮住狠狠臭罵一頓。我甚至希望他在路上滑一跤,摔斷腳踝,這樣我就可以對他說,「我早就跟你說過了嘛!」帶著滿肚子的怨氣,我跌跌撞撞走下山來,進入營地。修早已筋疲力竭,但看見我平安歸來,卻顯得十分高興,於是我那滿腔怒火刹那間化爲烏有。阿布杜已經煮好茶,一看見我回來,他連忙站起身,雙手捧著一只跟尿壺一般大小的茶碗,熱騰騰送到我手上。可恨的是,我在山上的時候,他卻把我的空氣墊給弄壞了 。他拖著空氣墊走過石頭地,沒給它充氣就在上面坐下來。 「我提議我們再花一天時間,勘查泰國登山路線。」修嘶啞著嗓門說。這會兒,我們正肩並肩躺在一塊大石頭上,模樣兒活像兩隻並排燒烤的鯡魚。「我覺得,我們應該試試西南方的山脊,雖然,在冰河上面的時候,你說過你不想走那條路線。」「只有瘋子才會走那條路線。」我們爭吵了起來。高原的稀薄空氣使人們的脾氣變得特別暴躁。吵了半天,修終於說,「除此之外只有一個選擇試試山的另一邊,也就是昨天我們在石壁上看到的那條山脊的南側。」「距離這兒多遠?」「以我們目前的身體情況來看,得步行三天。如果現在就出發,今晚可以抵達商務中心,明天晚上抵達查瑪爾河谷中段,後天抵達山腳下。」我們把登山裝備攤開來,檢查一遍。我發覺,昨天下山解開身上的登山繩時,我把一枚繫繩環和一根尼龍吊索遺留在冰河底部。這兒的海拔雖然不算很高,但稀薄的空氣卻使我變得格外焦躁易怒,於是,我決定立刻就去把丟失的東西給找回來。 「你究竟要上哪兒去啊?」修問道。我穿上靴子。 「去把繫繩環和吊索找回來呀。」 「別去吧!不値得特地跑一趟。我們有足夠的繫繩環和吊索。」 如果他就此打住,那該多好,但他偏偏加上一句:「下次可要細心一點哦!」這話 聽起來就像老師訓誡學生。「我早就知道你會這樣講,所以,我非把繫繩環和吊索找回來不可。」「你瘋了!」修說。我是瘋了 。我單獨往越南新娘面談走去,途中經過那個高原湖泊。它彷彿向我招手,邀請我蹲下來喝口水,洗個澡,然後淹死在它的懷抱中。我沿著另一條路線爬過一堆冰磧,來到寬達一英里的冰河旁,奇蹟似地,我竟然在一塊平坦的岩石上找到遺失的繫繩環。

步步爲營

我洋洋得意地走下山來,經過湖邊時,我再也忍不住了 。微風吹拂下,湖水映照著陽光一個勁兒眨著眼睛,向我招手。越南新娘仲介心裡想,這會兒一頭鑽進湖水中,好好浸泡一會兒,多愜意啊。這個念頭才興起,我就縱身跳進湖水中。淺灘的水很溫暖,我忍不住深深喝了好幾门,喝過/湖水,我才猛然驚覺,這兒的水是喝不得的。感覺上,彷彿犯下了吃人肉之類的滔天罪行似的。其實,喝喝湖水,受害的只是我個人的健康,跟大眾的福祉實在扯不上一點關係,但那種羞愧的感覺還是很強烈。 我在山中整整待了兩個鐘頭,中午十一 一點四十五分,我才回到營地。整個營地空蕩 蕩地,只剩下一塊石板,上面擱著我的行囊。他們把我的行李全都打包停當,等我回來 領取。不知怎的,一看到石板上擱著的行囊,我就覺得格外孤寂,彷彿天地間只剩下我 個人除了流水聲和偶爾石頭滾落時發出的轟隆聲,山中靜悄悄,聽不見半點聲音。我一 個人站在群山環繞、宛如圓形International business center露天劇場的高原台地上丄孚受這難得的悠閒和孤寂。然後,我背起行囊上路。下山時,行李由我們三個人平均分擔,因此這會兒,我身上的負荷比上山時沉重得多。 一路下山,我的注意力越來越不能集中。我原本應該沿著山中的激流走到山腳下的牧地,但不知怎地,我卻一直往北走去,結果發現自己被困在一堆冰磧中間,而牧地就 在一千呎的山崖下。這一千呎的下坡路可眞是一場夢魘。冰磧上石頭層層疊疊堆在一起,隨時都會坍塌下來。我只好步步爲營,慢慢走下山去。我看得見山腳下我們「基地營」的石頭、馬匹、靑草和蹲在火堆旁的馬夫,但一時間卻可望而不可及。心中一酸,我差點流下眼淚來。 好不容易,我終於走下山來,踉跟蹌蹌闖過一片綠油油的草地,一直衝到大石頭的陰影下。這會兒,我只想躱在陰涼處好好歇息。一個鐘頭後,我們出發前往山下河谷的 高詹村。這一回合的交鋒,山赢了我們。 北興都庫什山某一定點以公尺計算的高度,依據英國陸軍參谋部地理組所繪製的地圖 攀登米爾罾薩米爾峰路線圖 第一次勘杳路線第一次勘杳路線第一次和第一次嘗試紐里斯坦高山牧地營查瑪爾河谷在第三塊牧地底部,阿布杜,拉辛盤腿坐在河邊綠油油的草地上,等候我們。他先前已經回到夏季牧場上,不知怎的,現在又跑回山腰來跟我們見面。這會兒,他已經守候了好幾個小時。我們登山失敗的消息,透過亞洲特有的神奇傳播系統電報術和室內設計的奇異結合傳到他耳中。他給我們每個人帶來一條麵包。在奶油中煎烤過的麵包,火候恰到好處,嚼在嘴裡特別酥脆爽口 ,比我們的馬夫煮的那些油膩食物好吃多了 。

晻嘛呢叭彌哞

「這些麵包是我親自爲你們烘焙的。」他說。直到大夥兒吃完麵包,他才吿訴我們事情的原委。「我家裡出了點事。今天早晨,天才濛濛亮,我的姪兒穆罕默德,納因帶著來福槍離開夏季牧場,到山裡獵捕土撥鼠。他埋伏在一塊尖石上等候獵物。早晨五點鐘,我忽然聽到槍聲,抬頭一望,看見曼尼,這是拉辛對他姪兒的暱稱從石頭上摔落下來。就像一頭高地山羊,我拔起腿來跑到山上,發現曼尼躺在石頭下,已是奄奄一息。我把他背回牧場。他傷得很重,我擔心他熬不過去,現在只有你們的會議桌能救曼尼了 。」拉辛曾親眼看見修,卡勒斯替西爾,穆罕默德的馬兒包紮前腿的傷口 ,也曾目睹他醫治馬背上的鞍瘡。馬兒會生鞍瘡,全是因爲馬夫西爾,穆罕默德生性懶散暴虐,不體洫牲畜的緣故。修把膏藥塗抹在馬兒的傷口 ,然後包紮上繃帶,動作十分溫柔,就像治療一個生病的小孩。拉辛在旁看了 , 一本正經地說,「西爾,穆罕默德若是生病,他肯定不會得到像他的馬兒今天所受的這種待遇。」我們忘記了腳痛和腹痛,拔起腿來就拚命跑下山去,希望能追上我們的馬夫,免得他們把藥品運送到帕里安河谷。他們走在我們前頭,相距一個小時的腳程。不久,我們來到一個石頭遍布的荒野。拉辛蹲下身來,把鞋子穿上一路上他都是打赤腳,把鞋子兜掛在脖子上,這兒的路徑一樣崎嶇不平,他卻停下腳步把鞋子穿上,這種海外婚紗舉動著實令人費解。也許,就像那些把靴子拎到敎堂門口才穿上的愛爾蘭農夫,他感覺到文明社會已經臨近了 。 就在這當兒,我忽然感到腹痛如絞,不得不停下腳步解決內急問題。其他兩個人把我留在後頭,繼續往前跑。拉完肚子,我依循著拉辛在塵土上遺留下的足跡,拚命追趕他們。拉辛的鞋子,鞋底是用美國汽車輪胎做的,它在路上留下輪胎商標〈城鎭與鄉村)的顚倒印記。這行英文字母一路延伸下去,無休無止,無窮無盡,漸漸地彷彿變成了 一句神秘的咒語……就像一位前往寺廟進香的佛敎徒,一面走一面反反覆覆唸誦《六字大明咒》:晻嘛呢叭彌哞、晻嘛呢叭彌哞……我一路走一路望著地上的鞋印,走著想著,不知怎的就迷了路,發現自己置身在一個只有山羊才能穿越的死胡同中。山坡十分陡峭崎嶇,從這兒走下去,跟幾個小時前我從冰河上攀爬下來一樣困難。 我筋疲力竭地沿著漫長的山路一直走下去,經過一處隘口上山時,我們牽著馬兒千辛萬苦穿過這條狭道然後經過遊牧民族的一個營地。三天前,這兒空空蕩蕩地連一座帳篷都沒有。路上我遇到一位婦人,她蹲伏在路旁,模樣兒活像一隻受到驚嚇的兎子,看見我走過來,她慌忙把臉龐轉開去。大陸新娘仲介也遇到一些山地人,有的是塔吉克族,有的是巴丹族,他們默默握住我的手,態度非常親切友善。走啊走啊,我終於來到夏季牧場,看見修,卡勒斯已經把馬背上的登山装備全都卸下來,藥品散落一地。

黑色山羊皮

修正在發脾氣。「找不到他媽的醫藥箱!把每一匹他媽的馬兒運載的東西全都卸下來,才找到醫藥箱。我們怎麼會帶來那麼多肉湯罐頭? 一輩子都吃不完。你曉得藥品放 在哪裡嗎?放在他媽的最後一只屏風隔間!」「我是不是應該給他注射嗎啡?」修焦急地問我。他對醫藥的態度有點古怪,看他爲我們的登山之旅所蒐集的藥品就知道。 「你怎麼處理他的傷口呢?」 「用冷壓布止血,盡可能淸洗傷口 。」 「你到現在還沒告訴我,他的傷勢到底怎樣?」 「我去看過他了 。」修的情緒漸漸平復下來。「我跟拉辛一塊去。他躺在茅屋裡,身 上蓋著好幾件棉被。屋裡光線很暗,黑鴉鴉的擠滿了人。受傷的這個小夥子年紀約莫十 六歲,鬍子剛長出來,我只看得見他的臉龐。一大群蒼蠅停在他臉上,密密麻麻.,他的 鼻子和嘴唇腫脹得就像一個黑人。他家的女人把他的頭髮剃光,他的整個頭皮到處是瘀 傷,血跡斑斑。這小夥子躺在一堆棉被下,不斷扭動身子,嘴裡嗯嗯啊啊呻吟不停。」 「還好,你沒給他注射嗎啡!他可能是腦震盪,注射嗎啡會要他的命。」「我沒注射嗎啡。他的眼睛被凝結的血塊封住,睜不開來,我們幫他淸洗頭臉。慢慢地,他終於張開一隻眼睛和部分嘴唇,大聲呻吟起來。大夥兒紛紛走上前去搖撼他的身子。『曼尼,曼尼,你聽得見我們叫你嗎?』大夥兒齊聲呼喚,但他卻答不出話來。然後,令人毛骨悚然的事情發生了 。我準備替他包紮身上其他傷口 ,拉辛掀開棉被,露出他的胳臂和胸膛,就在這一刻,我看到了這一輩子未曾看到過的最詭異的現象:這小夥子的身體竟是山羊!他全身緊密匝實包裹在一隻北海道黑色山羊皮裡,胸膛上凸出兩粒灰色的乳頭。我問拉辛,這到底是怎麼回事?」「我們的族人生病時,我們就用山羊皮把他包紮起來。」拉辛說:「它的熱氣會把毒素吸出病人身體,散發到山羊皮上。」這個故事聽起來挺怪異的。根據傳說,回敎入侵之前,牧羊神潘恩曾統治阿富汗的草原,如今他的王國雖然消失了 ,他的室內設計影響力是不是仍殘存在遊牧民族的帳篷裡頭呢?回到高詹村的白楊樹林,我們已經累壞了 ,實在吃不下東西。阿布杜和他手下兩個馬夫,把他們向山上牧場的巴丹人購買的小羔羊宰殺,放在一只大鐵鍋裡,加上鹽巴、胡椒和羊臀部脂肪,烹煮一個半鐘頭。煮好的羊肉嘗起來辣辣的,沒什麼味道,但羊脂肪的氣味卻腥羶得令人難以忍受,尤其是對身心疲累的我們來說。今天淸晨四點半我們就出門,爬上海拔一萬七千呎的高山,一路馬不停蹄,現在又回到海拔九千呎的河谷中。我不好意思嫌「肥尾羊」味道羶,只管悶聲不響,埋頭苦吃,阿布杜誤以爲我愛吃這玩意兒,便從我們共用的木碗裡挑揀出最肥、最膩的幾團脂肪遞到我手中。

美豔絕倫

我不敢把它扔掉,只好含在嘴裡,憋住氣咀嚼了好幾分鐘,然後趁沒人注意時偷偷吐出來,塞進襯衫裡頭,稍後再予以處理辦公椅。那晚,那個管理水閘綽號「水官」的老頭又開了我們玩笑:他在半夜把堤壩上的水門打開,幾乎把我們淹沒。我從睡夢中驚醒過來,發現自己跪伏在地上,彷彿在祈禱似的。好一會兒,我只覺得茫茫然不知身在何鄕。 第一 一天早晨,吃完早餐,我們還只管懶洋洋躺著,不想起床.,除了修補破裂的空氣 墊和服食止瀉藥之外,一整天我們啥事都沒做。我打開口糧箱,找到幾瓶消毒藥片,那 是專門用來殺死水中的細菌。我發誓,從此我絕不再喝沒消毒過的水。給水消毒是一件 繁瑣的工作。從今天起,走在路上,大夥兒會看見我這副怪模樣.,一邊走一邊搖動著水 瓶,就像體操選手揮舞瓶狀木棒那樣。消毒藥片硬得像鉛彈,只有這樣搖動才能促使它 溶解。它的味道甚至比鉛彈還要糟。我的行囊中有一種小藥丸,據說可以消除這種怪味,但不是每一次都有效。當它失去效用時,我只好硬著頭皮,喝一品脫(我的水瓶容量) 聞起來像戲院汗酸味的水了 。 直到第一 一天晌午,我們才蓄積了足夠的精力再度出發,繼續我們的貿協旅程。我們必須繞著山腳走一圈,才能抵達米爾,薩米爾峰南側。在高詹村,我們走過一座木橋,渡過了河。我們前方,一群巴丹牧民魚貫穿梭過村中的街道,往山中的營地走去。他們屬於魯斯達姆,基爾部落,跟我們在薩米爾河谷遇到的紮營牧民有血緣關係。冬天,這個部族在賈拉拉巴德附近的拉格曼度過;他們管這個地區叫「甘姆西爾」,意思是「暖地」。 這個部落的年輕人用茜草把眼睛染成深紅色,有些手裡握著用舊汽車彈簧製成的鐮 刀。這群牧民中有一個瞎眼老婦人,渡過河上一座獨木橋時,她緊緊抓住一匹驢子的尾 巴。一個塔吉克人陪伴我們走到查瑪爾河谷。由於某種奇異的基因突變,這個塔吉克男 子有一雙粉紅色的眼睛和一撮金黃色的八字鬍。他的身分是納瓦克隘口的「善納多」直譯爲「空山守衛者」阿富汗政府委派他看守隘口,年薪五百阿富汗尼。我們跟這個「白公」相處並不好。他自吿奮勇,陪伴我們進山,「以防我們被土匪打劫」。除了行賄,這個手無寸鐵的空山守衛者又如何保護我們呢?他的名字叫阿布都拉,意思是「上帝的奴僕」。這個名字其實不妥,因爲一路攀登上河谷,他走走停停就像老牛拖破車似的。〕每次經過牧民的營地,他總是堅持停下來歇歇腳,向牧民討一碗凝乳來吃。這時,我們的兩個馬夫西爾,穆罕默德和巴達爾,汗,就會拿阿布都拉的相貌大開玩笑,狠狠戲弄一番。 「瞧他那張臉!」 「瞧他的頭髮!」 「瞧他的眉毛!」(阿布都拉沒有眉毛。〕 「肯定是德國人的私生子。」 「喂,阿布都拉啊,你父親是誰呀?」 玩笑越開越離譜,令人不忍卒聽。另一個馬夫阿布杜很少參與這種惡作劇,他忙著尋找樂子。河邊總會有一群美豔絕倫、野性十足的蘇美島巴丹婦人在洗衣服。正如修所預料的,阿布杜利用各種藉口譬如打聽路況鑽進巴丹婦人的帳篷。他會先提醒她們戴上面紗,莫讓我們這兩個異敎徒看見她們的臉龐。

雲霧縹緲

查瑪爾是一條寬闊的河谷,比薩米爾河谷繽紛美麗得多。地上綠草如茵,顏色深淺 有致;四野遍生蜀葵,此時正是盛開的季節。牧民的帳篷散布在谷中各處,高山牧地上 成群綿羊徜徉遊蕩。早晨七點鐘,我們在一座只有幾間茅屋的小村落達爾,里雅齊歇腳。在帕里安河谷上方,我們看得見一條鋪滿積雪的山徑,蛇一般蜿蜒穿梭在褐色的奧爾薩考山中,一直通到納瓦克隘口 。 一路走走停停。在阿布都拉鼓動下,我們七點鐘停下來歇息。八點又停一次。這回, 大夥兒全都鑽進巴丹女人的辦公家具裡,半個小時後才鑽出來。我和修待在外面,站在大太陽底下陪伴不斷嘶吼的馬兒。九點鐘,阿布都拉又要求停歇一會兒,這次連馬夫阿布杜都覺得過分了 。 「哎呀,你這個德國佬怎麼搞的!」馬夫們嘲笑他。 「我媽是卡菲爾人。」哈,二就像一群調皮的預備magnesium die casting學校男學生,馬夫們不停撩撥他,逗弄他,阿布都拉緊繃著臉孔,生氣了 。我們沿著山徑一路往上攀登。原野越來越荒涼,牧民的帳篷也越來越稀少。這兒的牧民是詹寨族巴丹人馬夫們剛才進去尋歡的帳篷,就是這個部族的。山徑兩旁石頭上,土撥鼠不時向我們發出呼嘯聲,就像球賽裁判似的。馬兒走一走就停下腳步來,嚼食路旁生長的苦艾,牠們對這種植物的根似乎特別喜愛,簡直到了嗜食成癮的地步。 在山徑上走了五個小時後,我們來到一個山谷的入口處。這座山谷很大,一直往西邊天際延伸。谷中雲霧縹緲,迷迷濛濛。「東冰河。」修吿訴我,「我們快到那兒了!可惜雲霧太深。」我們站在谷口瞇著眼眺望的當兒,雲霧開始消散了 。不久,我們就可以看到山的北側,視線一直達到山中那座巨大的石牆。一座圓錐形的雪峰巍然矗立,旁邊山脊上,似乎有一條路徑通往峰頂。我們感到非常興奮。「只要爬上那座山脊,我們就能登上峰頂了!」大夥兒都這麼說。 雲霧轉眼消散,整座山彷彿讓火燒著一般,一團團如棉絮的白雲繚繞在山腰,飄過山脊,依偎在群峰旁。谷中颳起凜冽的寒風,向我們迎面撲過來。山中不時響起石頭滾 落的轟隆聲。整座山谷看起來就像屍體被華爾姬搬運一空的天然酵素戰場。北歐神話,戰神歐丁命令婢女華爾姬騎飛馬四處尋找陣亡將士的屍身,再將其英魂引導入華海拉神殿儘管谷中陽光明亮,我們卻忍不住打起寒噤來。

瓜皮小帽

「萬一從南側攀登失敗,我們隨時可以回到這裡來,試試這條自助洗衣路線。」修說。一如往常,他也許只是隨口說說,但這話卻讓我聽得心驚膽顫。我們前方的山谷中,一條瀑布嘩喇嘩喇飛落在山崩遺留下的一堆亂石上。我們沿著瀑布往上攀爬,繞過米爾,薩米爾峰最東邊的一座石壁,進入查瑪爾河上游的山谷。 刹那間,我們彷彿變成了 一群侏儒。米爾,薩米爾峰的南側整個的展現在我們右邊: 東山脊就像一座高聳的花園牆,上面布滿破碎的玻璃,峰頂直揷雲霄,白雪皚皚;夏日 陽光曝曬下,山腳的冰河逐漸消返;冰河下,一堆堆亂石構成的冰磧一路滾落到山中的 牧草地,水面寬闊、淺灘處處的一條河川,匯聚無數小溪流,蜿蜒穿梭過牧草地。東邊,群峰崛起,高達一萬七千呎,一路綿延起伏,宛如一支長柄杓環繞著山谷的入口處,形成西南冰河的最後一座石牆。只不過兩天前,我們曾試圖從山的另一側,跺著滿山壁的蕈狀冰塊攀登上山,但沒有成功。 「山壁的另一邊就是紐里斯坦。」修伸出胳臂,指著東邊一座散布著雪花的陡峭石牆。這兒十分荒涼寂靜。最後的幾座牧民帳篷,遠在瀑布下方河谷中的草地上。這兒只有一座孤伶伶的高山牧場,一堵石牆堆砌aluminum casting在一塊凸出山崖的岩石下,屋頂是草皮鋪蓋成 的。牧場主人是波倫村村長。前往查瑪爾河谷途中,我們在帕里安河谷曾路過這座塔吉克村莊。牧羊人是村長的兒子。我們伸出舌頭,氣喘吁吁爬到牧場上來,跌跌撞撞走到四方形石頭圍起的一塊草地上,準備紮營。村長的兒子端著一碗凝乳,前來迎接我們。他身穿長袍,頭戴瓜皮小帽,模樣兒就像扮演樞機主敎的英國名演員亞歷堅尼斯。 日正當中,陽光白花花十分耀眼。我們鑽進石縫中,躺在陰影裡躱避酷熱的烈日。 有的人躺在高處,有的在低處,各自蜷縮在自己的坑洞中,就像躺在抽屜裡似的。吃過午餐,我們的旅伴,納瓦克隘口管理人阿布都拉一聲不吭就走了 ,也沒向大夥兒辭行。 「他到底怎麼啦?」 「他在生氣,因爲大夥兒管他叫德國人。」 「怎麼可以這樣侮辱人呢!換做我也會生氣的。」 「可是,這個傢伙實在討人厭啊。」 一整個下午,我們躺著休息,從一個石洞轉移到另一個石洞,逃避追蹤而來的太陽。 修閱讀一本名叫《巴斯克維爾的獵犬》的小說;我研讀一本卡菲爾文法書。除了幾本登山手册,這本文法書是我們這支探險隊擁有的唯一 本正經的網路行銷書。(其他的書都被我們當作厠紙使用,消耗得很快。〉我們兩人都把蘇格蘭小說家約翰,布的作品全都讀完了 。在登山途中冒險犯難的我們,不免覺得他的小說過於膚淺。他的男主角總是那麼謙虛-謙虛得有點過火、假惺惺。

毫無助益

我們心想,如果能把這些男主角弄到興都庫什山來,讓他們吃點苦頭,那該多好玩啊。布肯的小說充斥著這類廢話:「雖然我不該自詡爲一個相當優秀的登山家,但這確實是我最擅長的關鍵字行銷技藝。」對我們這兩個準備攀登米爾,薩米爾峰的菜鳥來說,這種話說了等於沒說,毫無助益。 印度英軍,謀部的戴維森上校一九〇一年在加爾各答出版的《巴什格里(卡菲爾)語言硏究札記》,昀一書,是他在阿富汗齊特拉爾地區逗留兩年後,在兩位巴什格里族卡菲爾人士協助下,編纂的一本文法書和例句集。這本書,我從沒拿給修,卡勒斯看。他對我企圖學習波斯語文的雄心,總是抱著冷諷熱嘲的態度。畢竟,我已經三十六歲了 ,這種年紀學習外文可不容易,何況我們遇到的塔吉克人所操的波斯語,各有各的腔調,各有各的用字遣辭,並沒有一定的標準。 我原本打算背誦一些卡菲爾辭句,記在心裡,遇到卡菲爾人時出其不意炫耀一番讓修,卡勒斯大吃一驚,然而,這陣子一直忙著別的事,這本文法書也就被遺忘在行李堆裡。現在我們來到翻譯社,薩米爾峰山腳下了 ,在山的另一邊,就是卡菲爾人聚居的紐里斯坦,我才在米袋下面找到這本書。自從上回我到喀布爾市場採購登山口糧後,它就 一直被壓在米袋下面。 書中的一千七百四十四個例句和英文翻譯,我從頭到尾瀏覽一遍。這些句子呈現出 來的巴什格里族卡菲爾人的日常生活,讓我深感不安。我唸給修聽,然後問他 「你知道這是什麼意思嗎?」對於我突然講起卡菲爾話來,修卻似乎並不感到驚訝。 「什麼意思?」「這是巴什格里族使用的卡菲爾語,意思是:『一連拉了好幾天肚子,你一定會死掉』」「這個誰不曉得呢?」修又回頭去讀英國偵探小說家柯南.道爾寫的 那本小說。 「聽聽這句話它的意思是,『別喝太多水,否則你就無法旅行。』」 「別吵我,讓我把這本小說看完吧!」 但願我那位住在倫敦的朋友,服裝設計師海德,克拉克能夠分享這些美妙絕倫的辭句。我繼續大聲唸誦卡菲爾文法書中的die casting例句。修終於忍不住了 ,霍地站起身來,跑到另一塊石頭下讀他的小說。巴什格里族卡菲爾人見面寒暄時使用的一些辭句,同樣令人不寒而慄天早上我在田裡看見一具死屍你的甲狀腺腫大多久了(我的女孩是新娘)。這眞是一個不同凡響的民族。即使是最不經意的談話,也具有震撼人心的威力。(你父親掉進河裡去了) 。 (我有九隻手指;你有十隻)。(一個侏儒來討東西吃)。

脱離兇惡

針對這句話的回答令人拍案叫絕(你的心腸非常好〕在巴什格里族卡菲爾人的世界中,風雨彷彿是一個狂暴的神靈,經常肆虐人間, 一陣狂風突然吹來,把大陸新娘的衣服全都捲走了。大自然是殘酷無情的 一隻兀鷹從天空撲下來,叼走我的公雞)。也許因爲生活環境太惡劣,多災多難,卡菲爾人的脾氣非常暴躁,動輒發怒你這個人眞囉嗦 (你幹嘛踢我的馬?你踢我的馬,我就踢你)(你幹嘛推我一把你再推我,我就揍你哦)。 這個民族不擅閒談,也不喜歡阿諛奉承。您那隻白狗的背上有幾顆黑斑點啊?這是善意的詢問,卻得到冷冰冰的回答 (牠是一隻黃狗,全身上下連一顆斑點都沒有)戴維森上校編纂的這本文法書,最有價値的部分也許是它的附錄,其中提到好幾部探討卡菲爾語言的著作。附錄中有一段seo文字,摘自俄國學者泰連提夫的一本著作。據他自己說,這是用波羅斯或錫亞波什族卡菲爾人的語言翻譯的基督敎主禱文,(我們在天上的父,願人都尊你的名爲聖。願你的國降臨。願你的旨意行在地上,如同行在天上。我們日用的飲食,今日賜給我們。免我們的債,如同我們免了人的債。 不叫我們遇見試探。救我們脱離兇惡。因爲國度、權柄、榮耀全是你的,直到永遠,阿 們。〕戴維森上校顯然感到非常困惑。他在書中寫道,「這段文字,跟我在其他著作中看到的(阿富汗)瓦伊古爾或巴什格里方言截然不同。「它完全不使用發音符號。」後來,在補充附錄中,他加了 一個注釋,大意是說:這本書寫成後,印度語言學報主編葛瑞爾森博士 將上述那段譯文送交德國慕尼黑的孔恩敎授審閱。孔恩敎授斷定,這段文字是使用非洲南部亞瑪祖拉,卡菲爾人 的語言翻譯的基督敎主禱文。泰速提夫《俄羅斯與英國在亞洲》, 一八七五年。丹克斯的英譯本於一八七六年在印度加爾各答出版。隔天早晨,我和修兩個人在五點鐘出發,勘查通往東山脊的路線。阿布杜仍舊穿著他那件軍用防風衣,一早起來幹活。他泡的綠茶濃得只有軍人才喝得下,看來他眞的把自己當成部隊裡的士官了 。我們兩人打定主意,今天無論如何一定要爬上山脊,然後,如果可能的話,攀登米爾,薩米爾峰巔頂如今回想起來,這簡直就是癡人說夢。三個馬夫一臉哀傷,目送我們走出營地。阿布杜問我們,萬一我們沒回來,他該怎麼辦。 我們眞想吿訴他,趕快去組織一個婚友社,進入山中尋找我們,但轉念一想,這樣做對 他未免太不公平,所以我們只好吿訴他.,萬一我們沒回來,你們就自己回家去吧!除此 之外,我們實在不知道應該說什麼才好。空氣中瀰漫著詭異的氣氛,彷彿大禍即將臨頭。

化石森林

當年,我搭乘潛水艇最後一次出航,看見軍官餐廳的勤務兵揮舞著帳單,跑下防波堤找 我付帳時,心中也曾湧起這種不祥的感覺。在布滿黑色石頭的荒山中攀爬了很長一段時間後,我們終於抵達冰河下。越南新娘爬上冰磧,行走幾分鐘,決定回到黑岩上,儘管那兒的石頭很鬆,但總比冰磧好走得多。於是,我們緊緊挨著山脊,從一塊石板跳到另一塊石板上,就像玩蹺蹺板似的。就在這兒我們第一次看到雪原。這只不過是小小的一片雪地,不値得我們爲它穿上雪鞋。走了 一會,我們才發現雪原上的積雪凝結得十分堅硬光滑,讓我們摔了好幾次跤,弄得鼻靑眼腫的,因此我們決定繫上登山繩。 我們攀登到海拔一萬七千呎的地方,沿著一條狹窄的岩棚朝向山脊走去。我們的頭頂上,一座石壁陡然矗立,高達一千呎,直通山脊;底下是一座陡坡,通向五百呎下的 冰河源頭。這兒景致十分優美,令人心曠神怡。石壁凸出山崖,俯瞰著岩棚,底下有一 小片泥土地,上面生長著一叢巨大的報春花。再往下看,只見石崖下終年不見陽光的陰 影中,冰雪凝結成一根根高大的冰柱,煞是壯觀。 我們拖荠笨重的腳步,沿著岩棚一面走一面觀賞周遭的雪景,不一會兒,又走到了熱熾的陽光下。我們穿過另一片雪原,這塊雪地比足球場還小,由於山風或氣候的某種 奇異作用,雪原上矗立著一根根四呎高的冰莖,看起來就像一座化石森林,我們詛咒著、跋涉著,全身汗流浹背,好不容易才穿越過這片雪原。 我們爬上另一座岩棚。這回,路更不好走,岩棚上四處散落著高地山羊的糞便,完全看不見人跡。這兒的石頭光溜溜,上面流淌著融化的雪水,宛如一條條小溪。山壁並不十分陡峭,但卻非常平滑,很難找到一顆凸出的、可以讓月老使用登山繩索的石頭。我們一面攀爬,一面還得撿掉抓手處的砂礫。這些砂礫彷彿是雲母石的碎片丄兒晶晶的,不斷從山崖頂端灑落下來。我們伸手撿拾,發現這一粒粒砂礫竟然尖銳得如同破碎的玻璃。這一輩子,我從沒看見過像這樣的一座山,它跟我們在威爾斯爬過的山完全是兩個樣。我不懂地質學,但在我看來,這座山似乎是破碎的花崗岩構成的,如同一支戰敗後 「軍心渙散」的部隊。冰雪持續消融,越來越大的石頭轟隆轟隆滾落冰河中。我們一面 攀爬一面躱避石頭,弄得狼狽不堪,心裡感到很憋,恨不得像一群受到委屈的小孩那樣 大喊一聲:「這不公平嘛!」我們開始感到疲倦。我們兩人當中,不管輪到誰帶頭,他都得手忙腳亂地在光滑的山壁上瞎摸,尋找根本不存在的立足點。苦中作樂,互相打氣,我們假裝成美國小說家戴蒙,藍揚作品中的人物,試圖爬上一座高山。修扮演「馬兒哈利」「阿富汗人建造的山怎麼這樣差勁哦!」他模仿哈利的口吻說。這時,一顆又大又圓的石頭從山上滾落下來,經過我們身邊,砰然一聲,掉進底下的冰河中。早晨十一點鐘,我們終於來到小峽谷的入口處。在登山手册協助下,我們開始攀登峽谷旁的山崖-^山過程中,每回遇到險阻,我們都會毫不猶豫翻開這本小册子,尋求因應之道。 爬了好幾天的山,我們結合公司設立常識和經驗,逐漸發展出一種新的攀繩登山技巧,比我們以前練習的方法快捷得多。以往,輪到修帶頭時,他總會耐心等待我攀爬上來,用鐵鉤穩住身子,然後他再繼續往上攀登,如此一輪一輪接駁著爬上山去。

腳夫支援

這些石頭都很小,還沒一便士銅幣那麼大,但若讓它們砸中,搞不好會一命嗚呼。「在威爾斯客棧敎我們爬山的那幾位姑娘,若能陪伴我們來這兒,那該多好啊!」修說出了我的心聲。「在這兒,公司登記可是無價之寶哦。」一條冰河豁然出現在我們眼前,我們看得見的那一部分約莫兩英里長。對面遠處矗立著我們正在尋找的那條山脊-西南山脊,怪石嶙峋,高達一千呎。它繞過冰河的源頭,跟山峰連結在一起,就像另一條冰河旁的石壁,但更加綿長高聳,宛如一把巨大的鋸子,每一枚鋸齒高達六十呎。 這條冰河氣氛十分詭異,四處聽不到流水聲,一片死寂,只聽見山中偶爾傳出石頭滾落的轟隆聲。我們坐在形狀奇特的平頂大圓石上。這些石頭的底部,墊著冰河運動造成的根莖狀冰塊。好一會兒,我們思索著下一步該怎麼走。 「也許,我們可以爬到那條山脊上。」修說。 「用什麼方法爬上去呢?」 「從尾端爬上去,然後沿著山脊往前走。」 一想到山脊上豎立的一顆顆尖石,我就不免躊躇起來。在這些石頭中間繞來繞去,得花好幾天時間才能走到山脊另一端,沒有腳夫支援,這是不可能辦到的。我把心中的 疑慮向修提出來。 「好吧,那我們就試試峭壁的背部吧!至少,它距離我們比較近。」 這時,外籍新娘距離冰河的源頭,約莫還有三分之一的路程。峭壁的背部有一條路徑,通到我們先前在另一邊山壁洞穴中觀賞的山峰。修帶頭。峭壁上的花崗岩十分鬆軟,用手一揑就變成粉碎。攀登了兩輪後,我的腦袋被乒乓球大小的石頭砸中兩次;炮彈般大的石頭開始滾落時,我嚇得慌忙叫停。這條路線根本行不通,那簡直是自殺。 這時氣溫已經上升到令人難以忍受的程度。宛如一隻巨大的海綿,太陽把我們全身精力一點一滴吸光。身體的倦怠,加上內心的怯懦,迫使我們放棄這條路線。如今回想起來,雖然感到有點難爲情,但相親事實終歸是事實,我不想隱瞞讀者。回到山崖上的洞穴,我們決定試試峭壁的另一面。我們爬上一座冰雪覆蓋的陡坡,這時,山中的嵐霧已經消散,前面的路徑淸淸楚楚顯現在我們眼前。我們一看,心裡登時涼了半截這條路根本不是通向峭壁頂端。「下去吧?」「媽的!好啊。」我們回到石牆上,準備沿著山羊徑下山,但方向沒弄對,過於偏左,竟然來到山崖最陡峭的地方。修一時魯莽起來許太過疲倦的緣故吧,就像我昨天那樣上沒繫登山繩,就一路往山下衝去。